Master pastry chef Zaher (left) and his brother-in-law Ahmed (right) at their specialty sweet shop in Pafos. © UNHCR Cyprus
The delicately sweet, perfectly crafted baklava and other delights at Master Sweets in Pafos are among the finest on the island. And their creator is Zaher, a modest and mild-mannered young master of his craft, and a refugee from Syria.
At the age of just 25, Zaher has 10 years of experience making baklava and other specialty sweets from his hometown of Aleppo. “I was fifteen when I went to work at my friend’s father’s confectionary shop,” he said. And that’s where he discovered his talent and passion. “I worked at two pastry shops in Aleppo,” Zaher explained. “Each family who creates baklava has its own recipes and techniques and I learned a lot from both.” Now, 10 years on, Zaher is creating his own recipes that include classics and innovative new twists with cocoa, strawberry, Nutella and white chocolate. “Every week I create a new recipe,” he says. “It’s nice for returning customers to find new things to try each time.”
“Each family who creates baklava has its own recipes and techniques.”
Zaher left war-torn Syria and arrived in Cyprus aged 18. “If I had stayed and served in the army during the war, I probably would have disappeared,” he said. “But even if you are not serving in the army, with things the way they are in Syria, you can’t be sure on any day if you will survive and make it back home.” For the first years he was in Cyprus he took any work he could find, just to get by. “I’ve worked in the fields; as a painter; in construction and in a recycling plant,” he said. “At some point I was able to work in a small restaurant that was making pies and lahmadjoun; I was working 14 hours a day, but at least that was closer to my profession,” he said. Zaher’s favourite job before he opened his own business was as a pastry chef in a hotel. “I slowly saved a little bit of money whenever I could, and eventually I was able to open my shop last year.”
“…with things the way they are in Syria, you can’t be sure on any day if you will survive and make it back home.”
Zaher is currently running the shop, working from early in the morning until late at night with his brother-in-law Ahmed, who was a professional tailor back home in Syria. Zaher’s younger brother Reda, aged 18, will also join the business after he finishes his studies in culinary arts. Meanwhile he gains practice by joining Zaher in the afternoons, learning the profession and gaining experience with serving customers. In the workshop behind the shop everything is handmade – including the fine filo pastry sheets. “We don’t buy anything ready,” Zaher said, proudly.
Zaher creates new and innovative recipes every week for his customers, in addition to the classic favourites from his hometown Aleppo. © UNHCR Cyprus
Some of the handmade Syrian delicacies created by Zaher and his family at Master Sweets. © UNHCR Cyprus
Some of the handmade Syrian delicacies created by Zaher and his family at Master Sweets. © UNHCR Cyprus
Due to the family’s status as subsidiary protection beneficiaries, they are not able to travel abroad and they feel insecure that their status could one day be revoked. Zaher worries about his younger brother’s problem with his eyesight, the result of a childhood injury. The doctors they have visited in Cyprus have not been able to offer any hope that Reda’s condition can be treated in Cyprus. Zaher longs to explore alternatives abroad, but with their travel restricted this is currently not an option.
“Once people get to know each other, they realise we can get along.”
“I would like to apply for citizenship and feel safe and secure, not to feel like I am always in limbo,” Zaher said. “I came from a young age to Cyprus because of the situation in my country. I have learned Greek, made many Cypriot and international friends and I never took any money from the government. I have created my business here. My life is here now. I cannot see a life in Syria anymore.”
Dreaming of the future, Zaher hopes that he will be able to expand his business and open a second shop in Nicosia and is planning to start creating birthday cakes and wedding cakes as well. He also wishes to create a restaurant one day with a full Syrian menu where people can not only taste the food of his homeland, but also experience its warm and hospitable culture. “I hope one day I will make it to offer this to the people of Cyprus,” said Zaher with a big smile. “Once people get to know each other, they realise we can get along.”
Find Zaher’s specialty Syrian sweets on FB / Insta: @MasterSweetscy
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